GEORGIA THE MYSTICAL TRANSCONTINENTAL NATION
GEORGIA THE MYSTICAL TRANSCONTINENTAL NATION IN THE CAUCASUS
The Republic of Georgia is a former Soviet Union country, and surprisingly close to Iran (just 1 hour 40 minutes flight away). It is a transcontinental country sandwiched between Russia and Turkey. Georgia is a small country tucked away at the eastern end of the Black Sea and the Greater Caucasus Mountains. Its capital and largest city is Tbilisi, and with a population of over 3.7 million. Many may not have heard of this country, or Georgia U.S.A. might come to mind when they mention its name. However, it is a mountainous, breathtaking, transcontinental country hidden in Europe and partially in West Asia. Georgia is famous for its cuisines, Black Sea beaches, wine region (Kakheti), and cave monastery (Vardzia), dating back to the 12th Century. Forest covers over a third of the country, and its main religion is Orthodox Christianity. Please continue reading to learn more about Georgia the mystical transcontinental nation in the Caucasus Region.an average
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ENTRY INTO TBILISI/GEORGIA
Entry into the Shota Rustaveli Tbilisi International Airport in Georgia was easy. The arrival section was somewhat small and dull, including the Immigration, Luggage pick-up/Customs, and especially the duty-free area. However, the departure section was bigger, with more duty-free shops.
The service at the immigration section was quick, but the officer was rather “cut and dry” and asked no questions regarding length of stay nor to show proof of accommodation, etc. I was then off to luggage pick-up, an easy exit through Customs, and out the door to transport in less than 30 minutes.
TRANSPORT OPTIONS TO THE CITY OF TBILISI FROM THE AIRPORT
From the Shota Rustaveli Tbilisi International Airport in Georgia to Tbilisi city center is easy and inexpensive. It consists of four available transport options: Taxis are the most expensive but convenient, they take approximately 20 – 30 minutes to the city and cost 15.00 – 20.00 euros. Additionally, there is the train (40 minutes to the city), which costs 0.50 euro (1 GEL). The slowest and cheapest option is bus 337 (takes 50 minutes) and costs 0.40 euro (1 GEL).
There is no Uber, but the ride-sharing apps Bolt, Yandex, and Fly Taxi are available from the airport. I highly recommend Bolt because of its good service, reasonable price (less than 10 euros) and efficiency. Avoid airport taxis because they are expensive, and some quote one price, but along the way or on arrival to your destination, demand a higher sum.
Georgia, the mystical transcontinental nation Cont...
ABOUT THE CITY OF TBILISI - The Windy City
Tbilisi, formerly Tiflis, is the world’s most Bohemian city. The first noticeable thing you will experience on entry is the windiness of Tbilisi. It is a phenomenon in the Caucasus region, where prevailing winds emerge from several directions. You can see, feel, and hear the effects of the wind as it blows away items. Consequently, I am sure it is pleasant and welcomed in the summer, but during winter, it makes the temperature feel even colder.
As previously mentioned, Tbilisi is the capital and largest city in Georgia. It is known for its diverse architecture and maze-like, cobblestone roads in Kala, aka Old Town. It is on the banks of the Kura River and is the main cultural, political, and educational center of Georgia. The architecture is from the Russian-Soviet-era. The Art Nouveau buildings and early-century structures date back to the early century, as far as the 4th century, such as the Kartlis Deda (Mother of Georgia) statue and Narikala Fortress.
The city has many Orthodox churches, synagogues, charming houses, medieval temples, museums, and futuristic architecture. Another noticeable thing was the countless corners and many narrow, winding, cobblestone streets. A word of advice to the ladies: leave the stilettos and pumps at home because, even in sneakers, these roads can be “taxing on the feet.” Furthermore, besides the pedestrian walks, even the side and back streets for driving are cobblestone. Only the main thoroughfares are pitched roads.
Downtown Tbilisi has many sidewalk cafes, restaurants, pubs, stores, cambios, fruit stalls, and numerous outdoor fresh-cut flower shops. Daily, I saw so many varieties of flowers, and different colours of roses (ranging from blue to black), that I wondered if Georgia grows and exports flowers. It seems to be a thriving trade. Overall, Tbilisi is a clean and laid-back city. I saw very few homeless people, and the beggars appeared to be Gypsies.
Georgia, the mystical transcontinental nation Cont...
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ABOUT THE CITY OF BATUMI
Batumi is the second-largest city in Georgia and the capital of the Autonomous Republic of Adjara (a political-administrative region of Georgia). It is an important seaport and Georgia’s primary tourist resort/destination. Batumi is a gorgeous city and is more of a tourism-driven city than Tbilisi. Accordingly, the government seems to focus on developing it as a tourist hub…and might I say, a job well done. They refer to it as “The Las Vegas of the Black Sea” because of its gambling culture, glitzy high-rise buildings, and buzzing nightlife. Batumi also has an airport, the Batumi International Airport (Chorokh). Therefore, flying directly to it might be the wiser choice if your vacation is primarily in Batumi. Because it is a long and tiring six hours-plus drive, one-way, from Tbilisi.
Many visitors flock to Batumi because it is a popular beach destination. It boasts of its beautiful coasts, the Black Sea, and most importantly, the Nino & Ali Monument/Statue (the Statue of Love). This is the only such moving sculpture worldwide, and my main reason for visiting. Batumi’s Boulevard and Seaside Park are clean and simply breathtaking (be sure to visit the Alphabetic Tower).
Other important Tips You Should know about Georgia
- The languages spoken – Georgian (the official language), Russian, Urum, Svan, and some English. A total of 14 languages are spoken in Georgia. (they also have their own Alphabet – Mkhedruli).
- Official currency – Georgian Lari.
1 USD = 2.57 GEL
1 Euro = 2.89 GEL
1 GBP (£) = 3.35 GEL
- Georgia has the third oldest flag worldwide. The flag is red and white and consists of five red crosses, signifying bloodshed, wars, and suffering, the white for hopes and aspirations of the future.
- Georgia has excellent ski slopes. The Caucasus’ sparkling slopes are the best in the region and at lower prices.
- The visa policy and entry into Georgia are the most generous worldwide. Considering that almost half the countries in the world can visit visa-free for as long as the entire year without restrictions or visa issues.
- Georgia is the birthplace of wine. Because as far back as 8000 years ago, Georgians were producing wine in their own quaint way.
- Georgia has a 6000-room cave city. Vardzia a fortress-monastery-palace, was carved out under the Erusheti Mountain. In the 13th century, Georgia’s queen ordered that they carved it out as a refuge for the raiding Mongol Empire. When they completed it, it had 13 levels, a bakery, a church, an irrigation system, royal apartments, and wine cellars.
- The Georgian language is used nowhere else in the world. That’s because its alphabet is one of a kind and not similar to the Western world’s.
- Joseph/Josef Stalin (Soviet revolutionary and politician) was born in Gori, Georgia, in 1878. At that time, it was part of the Russian Empire. Presently, there is a museum in Gori in Stalin’s honour.
- Georgia is one of the most ecologically diverse countries in the world. There are 12 different climate zones in Georgia. They range from semi-desert, to sub-tropical, to Alpine.
Georgia, the mystical transcontinental nation Cont...
- The world’s deepest cave is in Georgia. The Veryovkina/Verevkina Cave in the Gagra Mountain range reaches a depth of 2,223 meters (7257 ft.).
- The name Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, is derived from the Georgian word “warm” because of all the hot springs discovered in the 5th.
- Georgia is known for its polyphonic music. Polyphonic music is choral folk sung by two or more people. This tradition dates back to the 4th century AD.
- The most recognizable monument and famous church in Georgia, is the Gergeti (Orthodox Christian) Trinity Church under Mount Kazbegi. They built it between the 11th and 13th centuries, and it was once a hiding place for national treasures. It sits on top of a mountain at 2200 meters above sea level, and taller peaks surround it. The view from this 700-year-old church is just spectacular. It is now a popular wedding location for visitors and locals alike.
- Georgians are late risers. Even the coffee shops, cafes and stores struggle to open before 9:00 am or 11:00 am. They also have a lack of breakfast culture.
- Georgia was home to Europe’s first humans. Facts; between late 1990 and 2000, archaeologists found a 1.8-million-year-old human skull in the town of Dmanisi, Georgia. In 2022, they also found a 1.8-million-year-old human tooth. Those were the oldest finds outside of Africa.
- Georgia was the third (1st Armenia, 2nd Ethiopia) nation worldwide to accept Christianity.
- The Georgian Orthodox Christians celebrate Christmas on January 7th, instead of December 25th, and Old/New Year on January 13th/14th. Additionally, they observe Easter one week after others in the Western world.
- Georgia gained EU candidate status in the European Union on December 14, 2023.
ABOUT THE GEORGIAN PEOPLE AND SECURITY
What can I say about Georgians? I anticipated visiting Georgia more than any of the countries I visited during this trip. Because, before my visit, I heard that Georgians were friendly people (maybe something changed in recent years). However, from the airport, to flying on the plane, immigration, the hotel experience, and throughout my stay, left me disappointed. I was so disappointed, that I was happy when I left Georgia..
WHY DID GEORGIANS LEFT ME DISAPPOINTED?
I arrived in Georgia on a happy high from my experience in Morocco – the Western Kingdom of Africa, and entered with great expectations that my time would have been similar or even better. However, from my interactions with many people, it quickly plunged from ten to zero.
During my wait at the airport, I observed the people. They hardly smiled or talked with each other. Similarly, on the plane, but it didn’t bother me. When I arrived at the airport, the aloofness continued in the immigration. I am in line, and I am observing at least two of the female officers who were processing passengers, intermittently pausing, with passports in hand, and looking up and across at us in the lines with a scowl on their faces. It appeared very much like a teacher who is about to silence her students who are talking loudly. The difference here was everyone in the line was quiet, so I did not understand the reason behind it. When it was my turn, it was very cut and dry, and with a straight face, she grumbled under her breath, “Welcome to Georgia.”
At that point, because I had heard that Georgians were friendly, I was in disbelief at my assessment and words. The words I stand by are, “99% of the time, the attitude of immigration officers is a good indicator of how the rest of the population will relate to you as a visitor.” However, I kept hoping that what I heard about the people would be so.
THE HOTEL FROM HELL
On arrival at the airport, I emailed the hotel for accurate directions, as I usually do in all countries I visit. I got no response. Subsequently, I purchased a sim card, and after two unanswered calls, a lady answered and requested that we chat on Messenger because she said she spoke no English.
We then switched to messaging and she sent me one word. I asked what it was, and she said the new address for the hotel. Then I responded, “the hotel relocated and no one informed me even though I booked four months in advance?” “So what would have happened had I taken a taxi at 20.00 euros to this address?” “It would have cost me another 20.00 euros back to the airport”. I got no apology. She then sent a photo of what looked like a haunted house. By this time, it was dark, and I was contemplating not going to this place.
I was jetlagged, so eventually, I went and hoped for the best. On arrival, the location was okay, and the place looked like a bed and breakfast guesthouse. The lady I chatted with on Messenger showed me to a room. I looked around and noticed no bathroom, so I asked about it. She responded that because they moved, I would have to pay more for a room that included a washroom (even though I booked a room with a bathroom at a lower price).
After some back and forths, she insisted she could not give me a room with an ensuite bathroom. I was super tired from a day and a half of travel without sleep, so I unwillingly settled for it. Even worse, was although I would have been the only one using the bathroom, it was a bit of a distance from the room, down the hallway, and up three stairs.
Additionally, the room had the lowest bed I have ever seen. The mattress to the floor was about 10 inches, and the window in the room only had a sheer piece of curtain, which meant from the inside, one could see clearly outside and vice versa. There were no blackout drapes, nor a thicker piece to cover it. As a consequence, in the night, I had to turn off the light to undress.
Georgia, the mystical transcontinental nation Cont...
The following day, at approximately 6:00 am, the sun brightened the room very early through this thin curtain. I then sent her a message requesting that she provide a thicker piece of drapery or even a blanket to place over the sheer curtain at nights (because it offered no privacy) and a waste paper basket. Her response was no, she would not provide a bin or anything else because no one else complained, and she had been in this business many years. She became angry as though I was asking for gold. She then wrote that I had one hour to get out. Imagine that! How this lady is into the accommodation business or tourism is beyond comprehension.
Anyhow, I replied that it was early in the morning and I would need time to search for a new hotel and repack my stuff, and she replied, “Okay”. I then started looking for a new hotel. About two hours later, she knocked on the door and accompanied by a man, gesticulated and spoke in Georgian as if to say, leave now. I have been to more than 80 countries, stayed in many more hotels, and was totally in disbelief. This was the first hotel in the world to ask me to leave. I could understand being asked to leave a room for smoking in a room or making noise or something of this nature, but this woman was ridiculous.
Luckily, I found a Russian-run hotel just a few minutes’ drive away. The price was the same and was twice the size of the previous room. There were blackout drapes, and waste paper bins in both the bedroom and washroom (common in all hotels), and the people at this hotel treated me excellently. I enjoyed the stay at the hotel to the point where I extended it by a week. Consequently, my hopes of meeting friendly and hospitable Georgians were quickly dwindling.
MORE ABOUT THE GEORGIAN PEOPLE
The Georgians I came into contact with did not smile much, if at all. In fact, on a few occasions, I caught women looking at me with the “up and down look” or, as we refer to it “rolled eyes”. I even tested their friendliness on a few occasions while passing by on the streets by saying hello to random people, and none responded. The exception was the older males (50 plus age group) who appeared outgoing. Nonetheless, at least one person was honest enough to relate that Georgians are not happy with the financial situation in the country, and this has many unhappy.
For the remainder of my stay in Georgia, I observed that generally, many people seemed unhappy. The people who appeared friendly were those in the service industry, like the tour guides, etc., and some restaurant servers. I have made some friends in these industries, and I know they will not be pleased to read this, but I can only write about my true experience. They were the ones who also kept saying, “Georgians are friendly people” but why didn’t I see it or feel it? Additionally, they argued that it could be the language barrier, but that could not be because the people in the country I visited after Georgia spoke no English and were super friendly.
Georgia, the mystical transcontinental nation Cont...
Despite this, I must say hello to Vladimir, Medea, Shotiko, and the staff at Jambo Tours. I highly recommend Jambo Tours because they employ the friendliest and most jovial people in Georgia. They provide excellent service and local and regional tour packages.
I will not say Georgians are dishonest, but I have encountered so much dishonesty from vendors (who not only doubled their prices but quadrupled them), restaurants, and even the Aerial Tramway company. There were so many instances of this, that I can write three pages long. I am sure this does not reflect the entire country but a few unscrupulous businesses.
Georgia is a safe country. At all times, I walked fearlessly without looking over my shoulders, void of thoughts of being robbed or any such occurrence. It seems to be a violence-free country because I have not seen nor heard of anything untoward or violent situations.
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HOW EXPENSIVE ARE THE ACCOMMODATIONS, MEALS, AND TRANSPORTATION?
The prices for everything in Georgia are closer to inexpensive than expensive. (Georgians find that it is an expensive country). Even though the prices were reasonable, they were still not quite cheap enough to make it on my list of 15 cheapest countries to visit worldwide. It includes meals, accommodation, and all public transport. Depending on the country from where you visit, you will find it super cheap or mid-range, but it is certainly not an expensive country.
In Georgia, the public transport system comprises taxis, buses (Marshrutkas), minibuses, and the metro, and in certain parts of the city, one can use cable cars. You can travel within the entire city in buses for no more than 1 GEL (35 – 40 Cents). However, if you purchase a Metromoney Card (for 2 GEL), you can use it on the buses, subway, minibuses, and cable cars.
MORE ABOUT GEORGIA
Georgia is the first country I have seen with so many underground drive-through tunnels. I have seen many in Montenegro and even more in Serbia, but Georgia takes top spot for having an overwhelming amount of them. On the outskirts of the city especially when driving to/from Batumi, one cannot help but notice them as you are constantly driving through one every two to five minutes. It is totally amazing.
The construction industry is booming in Georgia. Just about everywhere you turn there are big projects, especially on the outskirts of the city. The amazing thing is, besides buildings, and new roads, they are constructing even more underground tunnels. As a consequence, they are a developing even more as a country, and construction jobs seems to be plentiful.
ABOUT GEORGIAN FOOD
Georgian cuisine comprises cooking techniques and traditions from the Caucasus region and even wider Eastern Europe, Iran, and the Middle East. However, the Georgian region has developed its own distinctive culinary identity. Georgian cuisine is exceptional in varieties, tastes, and flavours. From vegan to meat dishes, all are mouth-watering because of the range of spices they incorporate into it, much like its diverse nature, it offers something special for everyone and tastes. Georgian cuisines are in my top 5 best worldwide. They cook like Caribbean chefs, all spicy and delicious (no salt and pepper only, as seasoning) type of food.
I must also admit that Georgian Ajika/Ajvar is one of, if not the best I have ever tasted. I have tasted a few in previous countries, and Russian is a close second. It was just WOW…a burst of spices and simply delicious. I even bought an extra bottle on departure. Below are some dishes you must try when visiting Georgia.
Georgia, the mystical transcontinental nation Cont...
GEORGIAN FOODS YOU MUST TRY
- Ajapsandali (a traditional Georgian vegetable dish made with eggplant, tomato, bell pepper, potatoes, and onions. They stew it until tender, and season it with garlic, pepper, coriander, and spices).
- Khinkali (meat-filled (pork, beef, or lamb) soup dumplings. They are sometimes made with potatoes, mushrooms, or cheese. The dumplings collect the broth and are heavenly).
- Lobio (a Georgian soup or stew made with kidney beans. They serve it hot or cold, mashed with garlic, onion, walnuts, chili, coriander, and marigold petals. They serve it with Georgian cornbread).
- Kharcho (a winter-favourite soup made with the fat cuts of beef, lamb, chicken, and khmelisuneli, with added plum puree. They serve it with crusty bread and fresh coriander).
- Khachapuri – National dish (one of Georgia’s favourite dishes, which is cheese-filled bread. The cheese is soft in the middle. To eat it, they break off the crust and dip it in the soft cheese. The filling can sometimes consist of eggs and other ingredients).
- Tomla (this is the Georgian form of Dolma, a Balkan favourite. It is a family of peppers stuffed with meat, rice, or vegetables in bell peppers, vines, or cabbage leaves).
- Pkhali aka poor man’s food (is made with different types of vegetables like spinach, beetroot, spinach, eggplant, white beans, carrots, etc. They shape them into balls or puree and garnish them with pomegranate seeds, and serve them with bread. They are usually the colour of the vegetable used).
- Chanakhi (a traditional Georgian lamb stew made with eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, and various herbs and spices. It is a time-consuming dish to prepare because they layer the ingredients and bake it at a low temperature for many hours until it is perfect).
- Churchkhela (a national Georgian sweet that looks like sausages. It is made from walnuts and leftover grape juice from the annual wine harvest. The mixture is compacted on strings and left to dry until it becomes a sticky, waxy-coated treat).
- Amber Wine (an amber-coloured wine made from white wine aged on grape skins., It is similar to the procedure for making red wine. Traditionally, the wines are preserved underground in clay vessels, then brought to the surface and bottled in the spring).
MUST DO/VISIT SITES OF INTEREST IN GEORGIA
- Narikala Fortress (was erected in the 4th century and expanded in the 16th and 17th The once Persian citadel, dominates the city’s skyline. The view of the city from this fortress is the best in the city).
- Tbilisi Aerial Tramway (a cable car ride that gives you great views of the city as it takes you to the way to Sololaki Hill).
- Metekhi Church (situated on the left bank of the Mtkvar River, and built in the 13th It is one of the key religious landmarks in Georgia).
- Tbilisi Funicular and the Mount Mtatsminda & Park (the Funicular was built in 1905, it is one of the world’s steepest Funiculars. It connects the capital with the mountaintop and Mtatsminda Park, where there is also an amusement park and restaurants). Mtatsminda Park was once the most visited entertainment center USSR. It remains an amusement park for families and just about everyone.
- The Bridge of Peace (located at Rike Park, the bridge is an impressive and unique bridge in a lively area with street performers).
- Svetitskhoveli Cathedral (a stunning and unusual cathedral, dating back to the 11th century).
- Tsminda Sameba Cathedral (an impressive and majestic church with a beautiful garden).
- Jinvali Water Reservoir (super beautiful view of this aqua-blue colour body of water).
- Batumi & Ali and Nino (the statue of love) – (Batumi is a gorgeous city, “the Atlantic City” of Georgia. Also, the Ali and Nino statue of love is two moving statues that pass through each other. It is the only such moving sculpture worldwide). Be sure to visit the black sea when in Batumi).
- Kazbegi (it is almost a 3-hour drive from Tbilisi. Two treats await you: the beautiful snow-capped Kazbegi mountain and gorgeous scenery, and the most popular Georgian church, the Gergeti Trinity Church). A day trip to this site is a definite must.
- Kakheti Wine Region (a trip to this region is a definite must-visit because Georgia is a wine country and produces top-quality wines. It is the most important wine region in Georgia, where almost ¾ of the country’s wine grapes are grown).
SUMMARY
Georgia is a beautiful country, with lots to see and do, because it is in a unique and strategic part of the globe. Furthermore, adventurous, nature lovers and budget-travellers will find it appealing, especially during the low travel season. My experience might not necessarily be yours, so there is no reason not to visit and enjoy Georgia, the mystical transcontinental nation in the Caucasus Region. I truly enjoyed the food, and gorgeous scenery and sites in the country, even though the hospitality was lacking. However, its cuisines, historical sites, Black Sea, and one-of-a-kind sites like the Ali and Nino Statue, made the trip worthwhile.
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